KALIDAR KURTA

Kalidar Kurta is a kind of loose fitting country shirt. It is made by joining simple, plain pieces. The two side pieces are called kalees which given a comfortable fitting.

Measurement: 36 breast, 8 shoulder width, 22 sleeve, 33 full length, 15 neck.

FRONT PART

1-0  = full length +0.50 for turning is at the bottom (33.50)

Square out lines from 0 and 1.

2-0  = shoulder width + 0.25 (8.25)

3-1 = 2-0 Join 2 and 3

4-0 = one sixth neck (2.50)

5-0 = one sixth neck + 0.25” (2.75).

Shape the neck from 4 to 5 as shown.

B-5 = 0.50. Cut the opening B to C = 11.

CLICK TO VIEW DIAGRAM OF KALIDAR KURTA

BACK PART

Fold the cloth in such a way that two folds of two layers each will fall on the lines 1-0 and one fold of four layers will fall on the line 2-0.

The upper fold will be the front and the lower one the back part.

6-0 0.50” Shape the neck from 4 to 6.

All the other points are the same as shown in the front part.

SLEEVE

7-2 = one fourth breast less 1”.

8-2 = the sleeve length + ¼” for a seam one the line 2-7. No seam allowance is kept on the line 8-9 because selvedge side of the cloth is generally kept here otherwise turning in allowance should be added.

9-8 = 2-7 less ½” (7-1/2).

KALEE  (Side - piece)

10-7 = ½” for seams

11-10 = one fourth of 7-2 (2)

12-3 = 7-2 (8) Join 11 to 12

13-12 = ½”. Shape from 13 to 3.

14-11 = one fourth of 13-11 + 1-1/2” (8)

15-14 = one sixth breast (6) This pocket position can be lowered if necessary.

16-13 = one fourth of 13-11 + 1-1/2 (8).

A slit is kept from 16 downwards.

Bagal (under arm Patch)

A square piece of 5” (one sixth breast less 1”) is attached to the sleeve and Kalee and is folded diagonally as shown by dash line.

Layout